Before venturing off to Thailand, the only thing I heard about Koh Pha Ngan was that it’s to the home Full Moon Party, a crazy, huge EDM, dance, beach party that goes all night. I wasn’t planning on going to the island just for that reason. An EDM dance festival with mobs of people isn’t quite my cup of tea.

But I met some people on Koh Samui who were going and I said, “what the hell? I’m here, let’s check this place out.” And I’m glad I did.

Getting to Koh Pha Ngan

You have a few options:

First, you can fly to Ko Samui from most Thai airports. It’s a tiny, open air, flowery airport. I think it only has one runway. It’s government owned which makes it a little more pricey than the other options, but the convenience is well worth it. From there, take a ferry to Koh Pha Ngan.

Second, you can fly into Surat Thani airport on the mainland, then take a ferry to Koh Pha Ngan. A bit cheaper, but more time consuming.

Third is a bus/ferry combo. You can take a bus from most cities in Thailand to Surat Thani, then the ferry to Koh Pha Ngan. Cheapest, but most time consuming.

If you’re already on one of the neighboring islands (Koh Tao or Koh Samui), island hopping is a breeze. Just head to port where you came in and hop on a ferry to Koh Pha Ngan.

Where to stay

On the cheap

Echo Beach Backpackers Hostel in Baan Tai. Backing right up to the water with bean bags and hammocks that call you to just fucking chill Echo Beach Backpackers Hostel has good food with excellent sunsets. They have shuttles to the Full Moon Party, and a tuk tuk isn’t much to most parts of the island.

More Expensive, but still cheap

Le Divine Comedie Beach Resort in Baan Tai. This was one of my favorite spots in Thailand. For $25/night you get your own bungalow style place with beach front pool and pretty much private beach. Good food, good location, perfect spot to relax in affordable luxury. Book in advance during peak season, they fill up.

Near Full Moon Party

I’d recommend staying on the other side of the peninsula from Hat Rin Beach. Even during the Full Moon Party, the other side of the peninsula is walking distance to the party but still quiet, quiet enough for some skinny dipping… so I’ve heard.

Getting Around Koh Pha Ngan

Like most of the Thai islands, the best way to experience Koh Pha Ngan is on two wheels. Rent a scooter!

I learned to ride a scooter on Koh Pha Ngan, and it made the island experience so much better. Some of the roads can be steep and a bit tricky, especially during wet season, but if I could do it, so can you. It’s so worth it!

What to do on Koh Pha Ngan

Swing at Secret Beach

Although this beach isn’t so secret anymore, it’s one of my favorites. Soft sand, beach swing, hammocks, and clear, warm water.

You can scooter or taxi to Secret Beach, located on the northwestern side of the island. There is a restaurant with pretty good food. But the best part is just to chill and enjoy.

Trek to Bottle Beach

Not an easy beach to get to, but you’re rewarded with one of the most beautiful, least crowded beaches on the island. There are only a few resorts in the area, and apparently most people don’t make the effort to get to this northern beach.

How to get to Bottle Beach

• Safest option:Boat taxi from Chaloklum Beach: 150 per person one way, minimum 4 people.
• Hardest option: Hike from Haad Khom Beach: 2 hours and pretty intense so I’ve heard.
• Most risky option: Scooter from Than Prawet Waterfall: Very dangerous on steep gravel roads, don’t attempt when wet!

Catch the Sunset at Secret Mountain

A place that used to be just for locals, Secret Mountain is now open to everyone. Technically a restaurant, but it offers so much more than food and drink.  It’s the best place to catch a sunset with panoramic views of the Koh Pha Ngan and the islands of Ang Thong.

Get up there late afternoon, grab a drink at the bar, swim in the infinity pool and enjoy one of the most beautiful sunset locales on earth.

Sip on a Magic Mushroom Shake at Hat Rin Beach

Hat Rin is home to the Full Moon Party. As a beach, it’s not the best on the island, and can get crowded. The only reason to really go to Hat Rin when it’s not Full Moon Party is to get a magic mushroom shake from Mellow Mountain.

When getting to Hat Rin Beach, look all the way down the left side of the beach and you’ll see Mellow Mountain up on the hill. Order a “happy shake” and drink it there, don’t take it with you. (Read about my rookie mistake ordering a mushroom shake in Pai.)

Drug laws are strict on the book sin Thailand, but you can find weed and mushroom shakes on pretty much every island, catering to tourist demand. Of course, be careful, do only what you feel comfortable with, blah blah blah.

Beach it Up

With more than 30 beaches on Koh Pha Ngan, you’re sure to find a few that meet your needs. Some are well-known, while others still live under the radar.

Most beaches are on the west coast. Relax at Haad Chao Pao, which is usually pretty empty, and Haad Mae Haad.

In the north, check out Malibu Beach, part of Chaloklum Beach. Soft, white sand, a view of the island’s mountains and gorgeous turquoise waters.

In the east, head to Thong Nai Pan Beach, a not-so-crowded, picturesque beach near luxury resorts. Most beach-goers here are staying at the resort so there’s limited clientele. Perfect place to spend the day relaxing, pretending to be rich.

Eat at the Thong Sala Night Market 

The best place to eat on the island is Thong Sala Market. Super cheap, super delicious.

Cruise by on Saturday Night where the streets are closed down and the market doubles in size. Peruse the racks for cheap clothes and enjoy the people watching.

The Thong Sala Night Market is right near the port where you arrive to Koh Pha Ngan.

Spend a Day Exploring Ang Thong National Park

Kayaking through sea-caves, snorkeling in clear blue waters, hiking to a hidden lagoon, relaxing on beaches that are all but cut off to the world. This is a day exploring Ang Thong National Park, a 100 square kilometer park encompassing 42 islands and full of opportunities to explore a true paradise.

Read more about Ang Thong National park here.