Sairee Beach sunset
Asia,  Islands,  Thailand

Koh Tao: Little Island of Big Wonders

Koh Tao is my favorite island so far in Thailand. Known as Turtle Island because the number of  turtles that make the waters Koh Tao home, it's mostly known as the place to get your scuba diving certification. While that’s true (you can get your open water certificate for $300), there is so much more to do on Koh Tao.

Because of the scuba deals, the island is full of expats either getting certified or who work as certifiers. You’ll end up meeting people who tell the same story: they came to Koh Tao for a vacation or to get scuba certified and they never left.

People fall in love with this place, and I understand why.

Even though there are a lot of expats on the island, it still has a local feel. It’s a little farther off the beaten path so you have to make a little more of an effort to get there, and that probably weeds out some travelers.

A lot of people who went to Full Moon Party on Koh Pha Ngan went to Koh Tao afterwards to rest and relax, and that’s the vibe of the island. Not a crazy party scene, just beautiful beaches, easy to get around and, of course, delicious food.

How drive thru is done in Koh Tao

Getting to Ko Tao

You have a few options:

First, you can fly to Ko Samui from most Thai airports. It’s a tiny, open air, flowery airport. I think it only has one runway. It’s government owned which makes it a little more pricey than the other options, but the convenience is well worth it. From there, take a ferry to Koh Tao.

Second, you can fly into Surat Thani airport on the mainland, then take a ferry to Koh Tao. A bit cheaper, but more time consuming.

Third is a bus/ferry combo. You can take a bus from most cities in Thailand to Surat Thani, then the ferry to Koh Tao. Cheapest, but most time consuming.

If you’re already on one of the neighboring islands (Koh Pha Ngan or Koh Samui), island hopping is a breeze. Just head to port where you came in and hop on a ferry to Koh Pha Ngan.

Getting around Koh Tao

Ko Tao is a great place to rent a scooter and explore the island. Scooters are cheap, easy to use, and the island is easy to navigate.

Explore Koh Tao

Go to Koh Nang Yuan

I know, the first thing I recommend isn’t even on Koh Tao, but that’s how amazing this place it. It doesn’t seem real. It’s the epidome of #nofilter. It’s what you imagine a Thai beach paradise to be.

Koh Nang Yuan
Is this for real? From the Koh Nang Yuan Viewpoint
Koh Nang Yuan
Crossing the Koh Nang Yuan sand bridge

Koh Nang Yuan is just off the coast of Koh Tao. It’s three little islands connected by strips of sand, called sand bridges. Later in the day, during high tide, the sand bridge is covered with water and it’s not possible to walk to one of the islands.

Koh Nang Yuan
The sand bridge is closed at Koh Nang Yuan

The sand here is perfectly white and fine. There are lounge chairs to relax in and the water is perfectly clear and warm.

The most awe-inspiring part of the island is the view from the top of one of the islands. It’s an easy 20 minute hike up mostly stairs. At the end is one of the most amazing sights I’ve ever seen.

Pro Tip: The island closes at 5pm, get there later and stay until 5:00. The viewpoint clears out as they shoo people off the island. This is the best time to go up.

Koh Nang Yuan
The path to Koh Nang Yuan viewpoint

How to get to Koh Nang Yuan

You can get to this unique island through a tour, which I did, or grab a taxi boat from Sairee Beach. Entry fee to the island is 100THB.

Hike the Coast from Mae Haad to Chalok Viewpoint

This was my favorite thing I did on Koh Tao. This hike takes you to beaches that are otherwise inaccessible by car or motorbike. If you head out early enough, you’ll have most of the beaches to yourself. Read more about this hike here.

Catch a Sunrise at Suwan Viewpoint Then Chill at Freedom Beach

At the south of the island, you’ll find Freedom Beach, the starting point for Suwan Viewpoint. This peninsula is another place that showcases the stunning scenery of Koh Tao.

View from the Suwan Viewpoint

After doing your sun salutations at the viewpoint, head back down to take advantage of the soft, white sand beach and crystal blue waters of Freedom Beach. It’s a popular beach so getting there early gives you the possibility of having it to yourself before the crowds come through.

Pro Tip: bring a snack or picnic breakfast. There is only one restaurant in the area and it’s not worth it. Bring your own food and make it a full morning.

How to get to Freedom Beach

You can grab a taxi or scooter on over. There is parking, sometimes with a fee.

Catch the Sunset at Sairee Beach

This largest beach of Koh Tao practically stretches the entire west coast. There are a lot of hotels in this area. It’s the main hub for tourists. You’ll find boat taxis, tour companies and scuba shops littering the path along the coast.

Sairee Beach sunset
Sunset from Sairee Beach

Walk the pathway along Sairee Beach at night and stop in at any of the bars or restaurants that strike your fancy.

Go Skinny Dipping at Sai Nuan

Well, depending on when you get there. I got there early while doing the hike from Mae Haad to Chalok Viewpoint (which is highly recommended), and had the beach to myself.

Sai Nuan Beach
When you're alone at the beach, you skinny dip

This beach is only accessible by foot or boat taxi. Even if you don’t get the opportunity to skinny dip, its still worth your time. Go and enjoy it!

Eat Some Food and Smoke Some Pretty Green at Banana Rock

Also found on the hike from Mae Haad to Chalok Viewpoint, Banana Rock restaurant sits on a pretty isolated and rarely populated beach.

Banana Rock restaurant. Get some food and a smoke

Not the best beach on the island, but the vibe and the view from Banana Rock can’t be much better. You can order some Pad Thai and a joint for 200 BHT. Come and chill.

Go on a Snorkeling Tour

You can book it through your hotel or hostel, or with any of the companies along Sairee Beach. They’re all pretty much the same.

They’ll take you to prime diving and snorkeling spots around the island where you can see colorful fish and maybe even a shark (I did!) or turtles.

A day snorkeling at Koh Tao

Snorkeling spots include: Mango Bay, Lighthouse Bay, Hin Wong Bay, Ao Leuk, Thian Og Bay (Shark Bay) and Chalok Baan Kao. If you don’t want to take a tour, head to one of the aforementioned spots to get your snorkel on.

Eat All the Banana Pancakes

All along Koh Tao you’ll find stands selling delicious banana pancakes with any toppings you could ask for. It’s the most irresistible late night snack.

Mmmmmm banana pancakes [drooool]

See a Fire Show

At most of the beachfront bars on Sairee Beach, you’ll be able to find a late night fire show. Trained professionals twisting and throwing fire balls at the end of ropes. I am enamored by fire shows and the backdrop of the ocean makes it that much more astonishing.

Don’t Believe the Hype: Koh Tao is Safe

If you’ve researched Koh Tao, you probably came up on some articles about the Koh Tao murders and questions about the island’s safety. Did it scare you off? Well, it shouldn’t. I felt more safe there than in most American or international cities. There was nothing scary about it. The same safety rules should apply in Koh Tao as with any other place: be aware of your surroundings, don’t drink too much, don’t go anywhere with someone you don’t trust, on and on. Koh Tao isn’t any different than any other vacation destination. Don’t let the story deter you from coming to Koh Tao.

What’s Next?

Koh Tao is one of three islands east coast islands in the Sea of Thailand. Check out what’s worth doing on Koh Samui and Koh Pha Ngan, easy jaunts from Koh Tao.

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