Road Trip: Get Out of Bogota and Explore Boyacá.

Boyacá is a central region mostly within the Andean mountain range dotted with colonial towns noted for their architecture and history. It's a vast difference from the hustle and bustle of Bogota, and a must if you want to truly see the country.

During Colombia’s fight for independence, many crucial battles took place in Boyacá. Driving through the region you pass through small towns, mountainous terrain and vast agricultural areas. It's a great respite from Bogota.

Getting Around Boyacá

Getting from small town to small town in Boyacá is tricky. It's mountainous and the public transportation isn't convenient, quick or comfortable, and sometimes nonexistent. I was fortunate to have a friend with a car, so we drove. I recommend you do the same.

We hit some rough patches at night driving through Pesca on our way to Izá. The roads are not well kept, don't have signs or lights, and traverse over steep, super steep Andean cliffs. We thought we were going to drive off the edge of the mountain, tumble down the Andes mountains and die. No joke. It was so dark, one wrong turn of the wheel and ... [tumbles down mountain].

There weren’t many homes or people to ask to confirm directions. We'd drive 30 minutes without seeing anything except the pitch black of night. We were low on gas and weren’t sure how much further we had to go. Eventually we saw a man walking along the dirt road, who knows where he was going or what he was doing, but he let us know we were heading in the right direction.

Roadside Eats

Road tripping means roadside eats. As you drive through these small towns, stop by and get a taste of authentic, local food.

Road Trip: Where to Go

1. Villa de Leyva

We stopped at Villa de Leyva for some delicious Changua (egg and milk soup) at a hole in the wall café and then explored the Spanish town that was seemingly left in time.

Stroll along the cobblestone streets and gaze at the white stucco, Spanish style architecture while stopping into the small shops and museums. Plaza Mayor is the main plaza in town.

Villa de Leyva has a museum in the home where Colombia independence leader Antonia Nariño passed away. The museum is worth visiting to get a sense of life in the small town and to see the beautiful garden.

In addition to touring this home-turned-museum, you can take a tour of and try some Colombian wine at a local vineyard, see the town on horseback or just kick back and have some national beer while you people watch at the main plaza.

2. Ráquira

Ráquira is the pottery capital of Colombia, where you'll find everything from ceramic bowls, jars and plates to toys and beautifully colored hammocks. There are many workshops in and around the village where you can watch pottery being made.

The town has an artsy feel, everywhere you go you see color and all kinds of artistic expression.

The best time to visit is Sunday, when the local produce market is in full swing, however, the souvenir shops are open every day.

3. Iza

Iza is a small town virtually untouched by tourists, offering a peaceful escape and an authentic experience of historic Colombia. It was first inhabited by indigenous groups during the 1^st century. It's known for its desserts and you can find vendors and shops in the central park during the Sweet Fair in the main square on weekends.

Walking around Iza was like walking back in time. I saw a Paso Fino horse in the square that looked like it was dancing. It was incredible and something I had never seen before. It is the definition of a one-horse town.

Where to Stay in Iza

We stayed at Hotel Casistas Barro Iza Boyacá. It was lovely. It is a small hotel with a house to rent for large parties and smaller rooms for 2-3 people. Breakfast is served on the back patio with views of the turkeys, horses and mountains. Highly recommended.

Piscina Erika thermal pool

In the native language of the Muiscas, Iza means "the healing place," which refers to the thermal springs found just outside the village. Most Colombians visit Iza to visit the medicinal hot springs. Piscina Erika is the most popular.

The medium sized pool at the foot of a mountain offered a soothing and relaxing experience. The smell is strong, but once you get used to it you won’t want to leave.

4. Laguna de Tota

Laguna de Tota is a lake in the Boyacá region with a beach area called Playa Blanca. The lake is a big, natural, fresh water formation that is 200 feet deep in some places. The water is cold, usually between 30 and 52 degrees Fahrenheit. I was there in October and it was tough to keep your feet in for longer than a few minutes.

It makes sense that Tota means "land for farming." Driving to Laguna de Tota, you pass through mountainous farmland growing a lot of Colombia's produce. While on the beach at Playa Blanca, you get a good view of the lake that is surrounded by the green, fertile hills.

Take one of the boats for a quick 30-minute jaunt into the middle of the lake. From there you get a sense of the size and can see the incredible scenery surrounding Lake Tota. Just try not to get wet

5. Mongui

We kind of just happened upon Mongui, another small town on the map to check out. But it was more than that. This town is part of the Network of Heritage Towns of Colombia, where visitors can stroll along cobblestone streets and colonial houses.

Mongui is specifically known for making soccer balls, and the city if filled with them.

When we were there they were having a town festival. I wasn’t sure if it had to do with soccer, but soccer balls were everywhere.

I grubbed on some arrepas, perused the craft vendors and watched life in this small Colombian town.