Cartagena, Colombia: the Caribbean Walled City

Old Town Cartagena is a Colombian town full of vibrant squares, cobblestone streets and colorful colonial buildings wherever you go. A short 90-minute flight from Bogota, it’s a great escape from the crowded, hectic city life. Cruise the squares at a slow pace. Shop the markets. Get lost in the cobblestone alleys. Eat at any of the small cafes you find along the way. Grab some fruit or ice cream from the food carts along the streets.

Some Cartagena History

Cartagena is a port city on Colombia’s Caribbean coast with fascinating, albeit brutal history. The colonial Old Town was founded in 1533, though indigenous people first inhabited the area around 4000 BC.

A strategic port for the exportation of silver from Peru, Cartagena was pillaged by two separate French pirates, first in 1544 and again in 1569.  England tried attacking the city twice, once in 1568 and again under the leadership of Sir Francis Drake in 1586. All these attacks killed hundreds of Cartagenians, destroyed homes and leveled infrastructure.

Shortly after, work began to fortify the city, which would take hundreds of years to complete, as it continued to be a beacon for attacks. To this day, the wall encapsulates the Old Town. You can walk along a good portion of the wall, walking on history.

Exploring Cartagena

Check out the Door Knockers

When you're walking around, take note of the door knockers on the houses and buildings. You'll see all sorts of animals and things adorning doors throughout the town. The overall size of the door knocker denoted the status of the family behind it. The motif of the door knocker was a way to tell about the homeowner, their trade, skill, or calling. They are exquisite and only add to the charm of the city.

Lizards represented royalty.

Marine motifs, such as turtles, fish, mermaids, and even more fanciful creations, were for men who made their living from the sea, think wealthy merchants and traders.

Lions represented teachers.

Masonic symbols represented builders or engineers.

Go on a Walking Tour

I went on a free walking tour with Free Tour Cartagena. Our local guide was so friendly and extremely knowledgeable about the city. I highly recommend going on this tour to get acclimated to the city before exploring on your own. Cartagena is small enough that you can just walk around and eventually run into the sights without even knowing it, but it's nice to have someone tell you where you are.

And  if you want to plan a little bit more, here are some of my recommendations:

Plazas, Plazas, Plazas

For some relaxation, people watching or a perfect spot to crack open a book and sip on some Colombian coffee or tea, these plazas are the places to be.

Plaza Santo Domingo

A bustling plaza, especially at night, when the outdoor restaurants and bars are hopping. A major pillar of the square is Iglesia Santo Domingo, reputedly the oldest church in the city.

Originally built in 1539, it was burned in a fire. The church standing today was rebuilt in 1552. Local lore says the bell tower's twisted profile is the work of the Devil, who, dispirited at having failed to destroy it in the fire, threw himself into the plaza's well.

Plaza de Bolivar

Formerly the Plaza de Proclamation, this iconic public square, which shares it's name with probably dozens of other squares throughout Colombia, is surrounded by a historic cathedral, the Museo de Oro, Palace of Inquisition and government buildings. At the center is a beautiful fountain with benches for prime time people watching and relaxation.

This square gives you the quintessential Caribbean feeling with the plants and trees surrounding you, cobblestone at your feet, fountain at eye level, statue of a colonial fighter looking down at you, and busy people and colorful colonial, banconied buildings all around.

The Palace of Inquisition

This structure was used as the Holy Office of the Inquisition in Cartagena during the eighteenth-century. The Palace was used by the Inquisition to try non-Catholics and those believed to practice crimes such as magic, witchcraft and blasphemy.  Those found guilty were tortured and publicly executed here.

It's a grim history lesson, but one that needs to be told. When I was there visitors could see the torture equipment used on victims during the inquisition; however, these items were removed in 2015 prior to Pope Francis' visit. This is unfortunate, to say the least, and it paints over a time in history that should not be forgotten.

Plaza San Pedro Claver

San Pedro Claver Square is framed by the church of the same name and a row of restaurants and small jewelry and local crafts shops. Grab a coffee or tea there while passing through San Pedro Plaza.

Plaza de la Aduana

This is the largest and oldest square in the old town and was used as a parade ground. Spacious plaza surrounded by colonial-era buildings, with a status of Christopher Columbus in the middle.

Plaza de la Paz

Plaza de la Paz was built as the main entrance to the walled city and was once the only entrance.

Plaza de San Diego

A leafy, relaxing area that seemingly invites you to slow down, take a seat and grab some grub at a nearby restaurant.

From here, head towards the water and north to Las Bóvedas and start walking around the city via the protective walls.

Wall Walkin’

Las Bóvedas was built between 1792 and 1796 within the 15m-thick city walls as dungeons to house prisoners, was later used as storage and then as a jail. Today you can find local artists selling art and crafts.

Not far into the journey you’ll see the home of Gabriel Garcia Marquez on your left (walled light pink, orangey building).

It all feels so ancient. Walk until the wall is no longer a wall, but recedes back to the ground, and head back into the Old Town.

Where to Sleep in Cartagena

I stayed at the El Viajero Cartagena Hostel. It's in the Old Town, has free breakfast and is beautifully decorated. Overall a good home base to explore Cartagena.