tapsa temple
Asia,  South Korea,  Temples

Tapsa Temple and the Stone Pagodas

A hermit, some time, and a lot of stones

Tapsa Temple is nestled in the mountains surrounded by stone pagodas that were built by a Buddhist hermit over the course of 30 years.

In 1885, Yi Gap Yong, a 25-year-old Buddhist hermit, came to this spot on Mt. Maisan to meditate. During his 30 years there, Yong collected stones during the day and stacked them all around the temple at night. At one point there were as many as 120 pagodas, now there are about 80.

Tapsa Temple
The lake on the way up to Tapsa Temple

On the way to Tapsa Temple

Walking up to Tapsa Temple is an experience unto itself. From the parking lot, you walk through food stalls and restaurants selling traditional Korean food, touristy little shops, and a few artsy stores. Following the paved pathway, you’ll walk by a lake at the foot of Mainsan Mountain and Geumdangsa Temple.

Goodies on the way up
Tapsa Temple
Pickled ginseng everywhere on the way to the temple. The region is known for growing it.
Tapsa Temple
Geumdangsa Temple, on the way to the Tapsa Temple

Tapsa Temple

But the main event is Tapsa Temple. As you approach the temple, you’ll see the guardian lions on either side of the path, typical of Buddhist temples. To the left, there is a statue of Yi Gap Yong, the man who constructed the pagodas. And then you see it.

Tapsa Temple
Statue of Yi Gap Yong at the entrance with offerings of Soju and Makgeolli from worshipers

I let out an audible “wow” when I saw the temple it full. It feels other-worldly: a temple nestled in the mountain, with a hundred stacks of rocks all around. I’ve said most Korean temples look the same, but not this one, this one is truly unique.

Tapsa Temple

Tapsa Temple
The colorful detail of Tapsa Temple

The simplicity and thoughtfulness of the pagoda’s construction is impressive.

The pagodas were constructed without using mortar and most have survived monsoon force winds and inclement weather common in the mountainous region. The two largest pagodas are 13.5 meters (44 feet) tall, leaning in different directions, presumably to account for the wind that gusts through the area. The knowledge of the natural environment that Yong considered while building these pagodas adds to the temple’s brilliance.

Tapsa Temple
The two largest stone towers can be seen behind the main temple hall
Tapsa Temple
Small Buddhas in the mountainside

Narrow stone pathways wind around the pagodas and up to the top where the temple sits. The views from every spot were magnificent. I visited the weekend before Buddha’s birthday, so it was adorned with stringed colorful lanterns. It added a magical element to this unique temple. Even though it was crowded for the holiday weekend, it didn’t feel like other crowded tourist spots. It was open, airy, and the stone pagodas were too distracting.

Incredible.

Tapsa Temple

Getting to Tapsa Temple

I visited on a road trip through Korea, but if you don't have access to some wheels, hop on one of these buses.

From Seoul or Jeonju Bus Terminals, grab a bus to Jinan, then grab one bound for Maisan.

Couple a trip to Tapsa Temple with the Imsil Cheese Factory!

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