Malaekahana Beach Campground. Oahu, Hawaii
Hawaii,  Islands,  North America,  United States

North Shore Oahu, Off the Beaten Path

The island of Oahu is home to Honolulu, Waikiki and the North Shore. North Shore Oahu is known for some of the best surfing in the world. I stayed in the North Shore for the majority of my time, trying to avoid the crowds and touristy stuff.

Beautiful sunset at Sunset Beach

Getting Around Oahu

While renting a car is not something I typically do, it is needed to get around the island, especially if you don't want to be in Honalulu or Waikiki all the time (which I did not). To get around North Shore Oahu efficiently, rent a car. Shop specials, check daily, and book when its a good deal.

You can't go wrong just driving around the island and stopping wherever speaks to you, it won't take more than half a day, depending on how often you stop.

Incredible scenes just by pulling off the side of the road and exploring

 

Where to Stay in Oahu

Malaekahana Beach Campground

Our cabin and our view

I can’t say enough about this place. Malaekahana Beach Campground is rustic, there's no electricity or running water, and has the beauty you'd expect from Hawaii. It's on the east side of the island, close to North Shore Oahu.

Stay in a cabin for up to 4 people for $60 per night RIGHT ON THE BEACH and fall asleep to the sounds of the ocean. This place felt like a private beach for the cost of a hostel in Waikiki. A food truck is on site for a Hawaiian breakfast of rice, egg and spam, eaten on the picnic table as you hear the waves crash right outside of your cabin on the beach.

A peek inside our rustic digs right on the beach
Breakfast with a view

Explore Oahu

Diamond Head

The Diamond Head Crater is one of the most famous activities in Oahu, so go early, like 6:30.

More than 3,500 feet in diameter with a 760-foot summit, Diamond Head is a lasting remnant of a volcanic explosion that occurred about 500,000 years ago. It looks like a long way up but do it, the 900 steps aren't as bad as they look, and its worth the incredible views.  

It’s a switchback trail with the mountain on one side and a railing on the other. After a lookout point that doubles as a rest stop, the trail takes a steep upward ascent through a series of stairs and tunnels. The last set of stairs is a 99-step climb--just take it slow and steady--that eventually leads to a World War II bunker.

From there, the stairs reach an end and you step up to some of the finest panoramic views on Oahu. Take a short walk around and savor the moment. On a clear day, you see forever.

Nu’Uanu Pali Lookout

1.2On Highway 61, follow the signs. Incredible views from 1,200 feet of the Koolau cliffs and an unobstructed view of the coast. Mark Twain once called this view the most beautiful in the world. Site of the final battle uniting the Hawaiian islands. Don't need to spend too much time here, just enough to take in the view.

Byodo-In Temple (Valley of the Temples Memorial Park)

47-200 Kahekili Highway (Hwy. 83), about 1-1/2 miles north of Haiku Road.

I just love temples... This temple is a full-size replica of a 900-year-old temple called Byodo-In located in Uji, Japan. Nestled beneath the stunning Koolau mountains and overlooks Kaneohe, Byodo-In temple was dedicated in 1968 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Japanese immigrants coming to Hawaii to work on the sugarcane plantations.

Highlights at Valley of the Temples Memorial Park include a 9-foot tall Buddha lacquered with gold atop a lotus, and a 3-ton brass bell on the site is said to bring good luck and peace to anyone who rings it.

Meticulous landscaping has created beautiful meditative gardens as well as a pond stocked with golden koi. A lovely bridge crosses over the water and colorful peacocks roam the grounds. Walk and rest around the grounds, ring the bell and enjoy the roaming peacocks throughout the temple.

Kayak from Kailua Beach to Popoai Island ... then post up on Lanikai Beach.

Check the weather report – Kailua is located on the Windward side, which is the rainy side of the island and can be windy. Bring water shoes, sunscreen, hat and water.

We rented a kayak and snorkeling gear from Kailua Beach Adventures (130 Kailua Rd, Kailua,  Park). From there we walked our kayak from the store to the beach to take off.

On our way!
On Popoai (Flat) Island, looking back at Lanakai Beach

Not far from Kailua Beach is a flat island, called "Popoia." This island is a favorite resting stop for kayakers, snorkelers and surfers. It’s also a State Seabird Sanctuary where several sink holes are used by the wedge-tailed shearwater seabirds. In 2000, an estimated 3,000 seabirds were living on the island. Stay a while and take in the spectacular views of Kailua, Lanikai Beach, the Mokulua Islands, and East shore of Oahu.

On Popoia (Flat) Island

Fun Fact: Popoia literally means fish rot in Hawaiian, referring to the island once being used as a place of offering by ancient Hawaiians. In the distance, you will see a pair of cone-shaped islands: the Mokulua Islands.

Incredible views of Mokulua Islands from Lanikai Beach

After kayaking towards the Mokulua Islands we realized the wind was too strong and waves too big to safely make it to the islands so we stayed closer to the coastline and headed to Lanikai Beach. The best way to get around is to just kayak up to the beach, tie up and chill. We spent a few hours walking up the beach and taking in the incredible views.

Relaxing on Lanikai Beach, almost all to ourselves

Then we headed back to Kailua to return the kayak and snorkel gear. Grab some shaved ice from Hawaiian Snow right next door to the rental shop when you return your kayak for a refreshing treat.

Waimea Falls Park

59-864 Kamehameha Hwy, Haleiwa

We just stumbled into this park as we drove around the island and decided to pull over and check it out. A non-profit operates the Park to preserve the history of the people and educate those who are visiting the Waimea Valley.

The ¾ mile paved path to Waimea Falls goes through world class botanical gardens, historical replicas of how ancient Hawaiians lived and cooked, and has local artists offering hands-on activities while selling their wares.  Take your time through here, and dip into the side paths for secluded greenery and incredible views.

Just relaxing in the freezing waterfall water
Under the falls

At the end, you reach Waimea Falls, a natural rain fed 45 foot waterfall that cascades into a 30 foot deep, pretty chilly swimming hole. You are required to wear a life jacket (which is provided) and once I got in there I understand why. The cold temperature can be debilitating after a while!

Careful getting into the water, the rocks are slimy and slippery, but it is definitely worth it. We swam under the waterfall and floated on our backs, enjoying the beauty that surrounded us, until we were too numb from the cold to feel it anymore.

Explore North Shore Oahu beaches (and food)

The North shore of Oahu is famous for surf, beaches, sunsets, it’s chill vibes and garlic shrimp. Any beach on the North Shore is a great spot to chill and watch a sunset. There are plenty of food trucks lining the coast all claiming to be the best and the original. You’ll see a congregation of food trucks in Haleiwa, one being Giovanni’s Shrimp Truck (66-472 Kamehameha Hwy), the first truck to begin serving shrimp back in 1993. Take an afternoon turned evening to cruise these spots:

Sunset Beach 4.13

4.14Including the Banzai Pipeline, this stretch of ocean is considered on of the longest ride-able surf spots in the world, and is the venue for the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing (November – December).  Swim at your own risk, its very dangerous in winter. We just grabbed a drink and chilled on the beach. And duh, it’s a great spot to catch a sunset, though it can be more crowded than some of the other beaches.

Shark’s Cove, Waimea Bay and Laniakea Beach

More beautiful beaches, grab some food or drink and chill.

Lost Survivor’s Beach (yes form the TV show)

For you Lost fans, they filmed a lot of scenes in Hawaii and Oahu, including the Survivor’s Beach Camp in the North Shore.

On a mission to find it, we drove to Papailoa Beach, parked along the road and walked back into the residential area until we saw a path to the ocean. Walking to the left towards Papa’lloa Beach, you’ll see a tree with some cryptic notes about the Lost scenes shot there (from some diehards). While walking along the deserted  beach, we actually ran into the wife of a producer of the show who decided to move to the area after shooting there.

It is a beautiful beach in addition to having some Lost history and magic. You can see turtles body surfing in the waves as they crash on the beautiful moss covered rocks. Enjoy scoping out the fancy homes in this area with their beachfront backyards.

Haleiwa

From the east side, Haleiwa is the last of the North Shore beaches (but it is still worth continuing on and completing the drive around the island, though it is less beach scenery and more mountainous). Haleiwa holds a strong reputation in its own right with many unique shops, eateries and overall ambiance; it has a chill vibe for sure. You’ll see a congregation of food trucks, one being Giovanni’s Shrimp Truck (66-472 Kamehameha Hwy), the first truck to begin serving shrimp back in 1993. Grab some food or shaved ice and take in the vibe!

Snorkel at Kahe Point Beach

While Hanauma Bay is the most popular spot for snorkeling, you can beat the crowds by going to Kahe Point Beach Park and snorkel in its clear blue open water and high fish population.  The water clarity is as good, if not better, than anywhere else on the island.  On a good day the visibility can rival almost anywhere in Hawaii.

Path to the water at Kahe Poing

The Kahe Point Beach Park snorkeling area is located on the west side of Oahu, just north of the Ko Olina Resorts.  Kahe Point is nicknamed Electric Beach because of the electric power plant located nearby that outflows clean, warm water that attracts scores of sea life.

While it was initially a little weird to hop in the water alongside 2 massive pipes spewing water from an electric power plant, we did it, hoping we wouldn’t grow a third arm the next day. And it was worth it. Not many people, calm waters and clear views. We spent about 2 hours snorkeling far out from the beach before turning in to relax on the sandy beach for a few more hours.

Power plant in the background...

See a Luau at the Polynesian Cultural Center

If I was going to see a Luau, I was going to make sure my money went to a good place, not to a resort or other private business. The Polynesian Cultural Center was the spot. Not only does the your ticket include an authentic luau experience and delicious food, but the Center is on 42 acres packed with Polynesian history and culture.

Covering the pig

You can explore seven recreated Polynesian villages from Hawaii, Samoa, Tahiti, Fiji, Tonga, New Zealand and the Marquesas, and gain a hands-on appreciation for the cultures. Learn how Samoans crack open a coconut or climb a 40-foot coconut tree, make Fijian music with a derua, tour a Tahitian garden, learn a native dance, play a Maori stick game or get a temporary tattoo, or try your hand at weaving leaves and flowers into beautiful Hawaiian leis.

After exploring the grounds and participating in the luau, guests enjoy a spectacular evening show with more than 100 performers singing and dancing. Oh and there is fire dancing, enough said. Get there early to ensure you have enough time to see all the exhibits, dances and performances.

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