Road Tripping Jeju Island in One Week
I lived in South Korea for two years, one on Jeju Island, a volcanic archipelago at the southern coast of the peninsula. Referred to as The Island of the Gods, Jeju Island is a mix of high end resorts sporadically lining the coast, turquoise water crashing into rugged cliffs, lava rock, sandy beaches, lush farmland and small fishing villages.
Jeju is Korea’s largest island, one of thousands surrounding the peninsula. Formed by volcanic eruptions 2 million years ago, the island is about 73 km across, and 41 km north to south, just a little bigger than Oahu. Most of the 620,000 people residing on the island live in Jeju City, it’s largest city in the north.
The hour jaunt from Seoul to Jeju City was the world’s busiest in 2012 with 10,156,000 passengers per year and 178 departures per day. It’s perfect for working folks who want to escape the city and breath in some fresh, unpolluted island air. Get the best flight deals through Kayak!
Getting Around Jeju Island
Getting around the island is possible on public transportation or by taxi, but not recommended. Renting a car is the best way to truly experience the island. I've always had success with Kayak.com.
Driving around the island doesn’t take that long, but there are a lot of sights to see. You don’t want to be rushed here. At least 5 days on the island is ideal.
Want to drive in Korea? Here’s what you need.
Tip: Don’t use your GPS, it’ll just put you on the main roads. Take the Coastal Road, a well marked route around the edge of the island that takes you through small fishing villages, towns and beaches. Get out of the cities and check it out.
Important note on maps and navigation
Google maps doesn’t work in Korea, they haven’t let them map the roads, so you need to use the rental car navigation system or a Korean map app like Kakao Maps or Naver maps. Sometimes the names in English don’t pop up, so I’ve included the phone numbers for each spot to input into the navigation. This seems to work best in Korea.
Hit the Road
This road trip guide is divided into three sections by region: the west, the south, the east.
The northern part of the island encompasses Jeju City, a big city with high rises and everything else that comes along with that. There are a few things to do in Jeju City, but I focused on outside of the city, a true road trip.
West Jeju Island
The west has some of the most beautiful beaches, a relaxing sauna and some tasty seafood.
Where to stay: Grabel Hotel
This four star hotel offers high end luxury and a rooftop pool with amazing views. It can be a bit pricey, but if you plan ahead you can find a deal. I got it for 110,000 won a night, about $90/night. Book it here!
Grub at Gimgane
064-743-9343
Gimgane is a chain restaurant in Korea that serves Korean fast food staples like gimbap, ramen, bibimbap, tteopokki and other favorites. It’s nothing special but still delicious and gives you a good idea of traditional Korean grub.
Peruse erotic art at Love land
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Before I even came to Korea, I heard about Jeju Loveland. It popped up on all the lists and my friends sent me links telling me I had to visit.
Loveland is a park the size of two soccer fields with over 140 statues dedicated to everything love, sex and pleasure. I was expecting it to be mostly a joke, but I ended up loving a lot of the pieces and actually appreciating the art. It’s a surprising place to find in Korea, a culture that is perceived to be conservative when it comes to these kinds of things.
Explore Monsant Cafe and Aewol-eup
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Aewol is an area with cafes and higher end resorts right on the water. You can rent clear kayaks and explore the clear blue water just off the shore.
Monsant Cafe is a completely windowed building that sits right on rocky ocean cliffs. Its a popular spot, but you can get there early, before it even opens to explore the area. The coffee isn’t anything special, so just taking in the cafe and exploring the area surrounding it makes for a lovely morning.
Cool off at an idyllic strip of beach
Between two of the most popular beaches on Jeju Island - Geumneung Eutteumwon Beach and Hyeopjae Beach - lies my favorite strip of beach on the island. It’s a little rocky which means you can’t have a proper swim, but the beauty before you, the view of Biyangdo Island, is magical.
Bring a little picnic lunch, a towel, some Cass and a beach chair and spend a few hours taking it all in.
Eat at Pier 22
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If a bucket full of shrimp, lobster and corn sound delicious, Pier 22 is your place for lunch. It’s a bit pricey, but worth the experience for you and your taste buds.
Southern Jeju Island
The southern part of the island has waterfalls, temples and is home to the second city on the island, Seogwipo. Get your hiking shoes on and get ready to explore.
Where to Stay: Co op Harborview Hotel
Located to the east of Seogwipo, this hotel is comfortable and affordable, also with a rooftop pool with views of the harbor. Book it here!
Get Spiritual at Bomunsa Temple
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Temple is at the bottom of a Sangbanggulsa Mountain. Legend has it that the peak of Hallasan Mountain (the volcanic mountain in the center of Jeju) was taken off by the gods and thrown south, becoming Sanbangsan.
If the mood strikes, you can hike up the 400 stairs behind the temple, up Sangbanggulsa Mountain, to Sangbanggul Cave. Inside is a golden Buddhist statue and some spring water that you can drink or use to cool yourself down after the climb up. I don’t think it’s quite worth the climb, but if you do make the effort, the views from the top is the best part, don’t miss it on the way up.
Surf at Jungman Saekdal Beach
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Jungman Beach is near some of the larger, higher end family resorts. While not my favorite beach, it’s a good option to get your beach time in in the south. It’s popular among surfers; it’s one of the only spots really catch some waves. You can take some lessons there too.
If you’re hungry, grab some pizza at The Cliff and enjoy the views.
Hike the falls of Cheonjeyeon
My favorite waterfall on the island, translates to “the pond of God.” The water starts in a blue, clear pond, traverses over rocks about 30 meters (100 feet) to the first waterfall. From there it has another journey to the second falls before it heads to the sea.
Legend has it that seven nymphs would come down from the heavens to bathe in the first waterfall’s pond. Getting from the pond at the beginning to the last waterfall means you’ll be trekking up and down hundreds of stairs. It’s worth it, but it’ll get your thighs burning and your heart pumping. Allow a couple hours for the whole journey.
Feel other-worldly at Daepo Jusangjeolli Cliffs
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This was one of the most breathtaking sights of the trip. After walking along a well-kept, wooden planked path for a few minutes, you’ll see incredibly blue water splashing into black, pillared rock.
The Jusangjeolli Cliffs were formed about 200,000 years ago when the lava from Hallasan Mountain erupted into the sea, cooling into rock pillars shaped like hand-crafted stacked cubes. There aren’t many places in the word with these kinds of volcanic formations. The contrast of colors left me staring for quite some time.
After getting your fix of the cliffs, you can walk along the coast to a quiet pagoda with a peaceful view of the sea. There’s also some coastal cliffs that jut out into the sea where you can explore all the way to the edge.
See the sunset at Vadada cafe
064-738-2882
Take a break at a cafe that serves chicness, coastal views, coffee, tea and alcohol. What else do you need on an island vacation? Come here for sunset to experience it in its full glory.
Eat local at Seogwipo Olle Market
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Opened in the 1960, the Seogwipo Olle Market is the largest in the city. Come hungry and buy whatever catches your eye. Get some good deals on shoes, hats, bags and souvenirs while exploring downtown Seogwipo.
Admire Cheonjiyeon Waterfall
Cheonjiyeon is a 72 ft waterfall that seems to come down from the sky and land into a clear pond. The name literally means “sky connected with land.”
It’s a pretty straightforward find. You can park not too far from the entrance, follow the designated path and when you hear crashing water, you know you’re close.
Feel the dragon at Jeongbang Pokpo Falls
064-733-1530
This seaside waterfall is the only one in all of Asia that falls directly into the ocean. Legend states that a holy dragon used to live underneath it. The dragon's spirit still lives in the water, which can cure diseases and bring rain during drought. I stuck my toe in just in case.
You can find this 75 ft tall waterfall after walking down a few flights of stairs to the rocky coast. You can spot some of the Jeju Mermaids catching and selling their loot in the area too.
Eastern Jeju Island
The eastern part of the island celebrates Jeju’s natural beauty with a crater hike, biking around an island and experiencing the Jeju Mermaid’s latest catches,
Where to stay: Hotel Playce Camp Jeju
An all in one resort with rooms overlooking a plaza offering food, local beer, shops and places to chill. It’s popular among Korean hipsters and couples, its convenient location and cool vibes makes it the place to stay in the east. Book it here!
Rest your feet at a Foot bath cafe
064-787-9400
An unassuming building in a non-touristy part of the island offers coffee, tea, snacks, beer and foot baths. Order your drink and the owner will lead you upstairs to pick a spot for your relaxation. Plop your feet in the lava rock foot baths, add some of the lavender bath salts and relax.
After the foot bath, explore the area around the cafe and walk down the pier.
Eat green tea ice cream at Sinsanri Village Cafe
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On your way to the east along the coastal road, you’ll find Sinsanri Village Cafe. They’re known for their green tea ice cream. Take some time, enjoy the view, and grub on some cooling ice cream.
Explore Jeju Island’s Mini Me on Udo Island
An island off of the island, Udo is a must-do day trip while visiting Jeju Island. Hop on a fairy, rent a bike, explore some of the most beautiful beaches, eat peanut ice cream, grub on fresh seafood, and take in some incredible seaside views.
Hike Seongsan Ilchulbang crater
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Seongsan Ilchulbong was formed by a volcanic eruption more than 100,000 years ago. At the top is a huge crater 600 meters wide and 90 meters deep with 99 sharp rocks naturally placed around the edge, forming what looks like a giant crown.
The hike up to the top is pretty amazing. It’s 182 meters up a series of steep zig-zagging staircases. I definitely took some breaks going up; the views below were a good distraction. It takes about 45 minutes to reach the craterous top.
It’s known as Sunrise Peak - head up to catch a sunrise if you can. Also the home of the Jeju Mermaids.
Meet some mermaids at the House of Women Diver’s
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Mermaids do exists, just not the ones in Disney movies. The mermaids of Jeju Island are fisherwomen who are the backbone of the fishing economy on the island. A result of a tax loophole discovered a decade ago, the women of the island became the primary breadwinners, free-diving for their loot and selling it all throughout Korea.
You can see them all around the island. At Seongsan Ilchulbong, the volcanic mountain crater mentioned above, you can witness them free diving and learn more about their life. They operate a restaurant there where you can grub on their fresh catch.
Catch some final beach vibes at Woljeongri Beach
On your way back to Jeju City, stop by one of the many seaside cafes at Woljeongri Beach. It’s a busy beach but the views from the cafes offer a chill spot to relax and caffeine up.
There you have it, your itinerary for Jeju Island.
Let me know if this is helpful, or if I missed something!
Happy Travels!
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